Salomé Abeger

What Are The Surf Terms and Surfer Phrases?

It is said that some dialects have more than 50 words that people refer to on a daily basis. I think of surfing just like any other sport although surfing gives you a different lifestyle Lots of surf terms and surfer phrases with a down to earth way of living compared to any other sport. With surfing, everyone that is passionate about it will take the day off when the waves are going off and breaking really good, any other sports they will go on about their day like they planned and then would go to practice after school or work. So I believe surfing is VERY different and a lot more down to roots than many other sports.

But just like other sports, they all have some terms and phrases that are not so easy to understand and that only practitioners of that sport understand. Here is a quick example, Judo. Judo has the techniques name in Japanese and the students have to learn them in Japanese everywhere around the world to progress through the next belts.

Well in surfing, surf Terms and surfer phrases as well. You might have heard of a couple like, just pitted, duck dive, kook, air, backside, bottom turn, carve, charging, pumping, Chinese wax, and so much more. In this article, we will go over the terms that you will hear the most and have to be familiar with so you can understand the language.

Surf Terms and Surfer Phrases Everyone Should Know

Okay, let’s get started. Just a little warning, some terms might seem weird and make no sense but we all use it… It is just apart of the sport and how surfers talk about the waves and everything else.

A-frame

This is when a wave breaking so nicely that it forms an A with its whitewater. This is a wave that can be surfed right and left. The best type of wave!

Air AKA Ariel

This is an advanced move where the surfer projects himself/herself off of the wave and in the air and the landing it back on the wave.

Amped

Getting excited before going out to surf. Usually when watching the conditions and getting ready to paddle out.

Ankle slappers

The height of the wave that does not exceed the height of an ankle or about ankle high in the water. It is a very small wave.

Backside

This is when you are surfing on the wave and your back is toward the wave. For a regular footed surfer, a wave going left would be their backside. And vise versa for a goofy footed. Also, the opposite of backside is frontside.

Backwash

This is when a wave is coming back to the ocean where the incoming waves are after it has rebounded onto the shore, cliff, or even a rock. This is usually seen when the tide is going to low tide and there is a lot of water movement going on. It can make some bumpy waves that are fun to ride.

Bail

This is when a surfer jumps off their board to avoid a wipeout.

Barrel 0r Tube or Pitted or Shaked

This is a type of wave that advanced surfers are always looking for. It’s a wave that is very hollow when it breaks and surfers get in that spot in the middle and are what we also called getting tubed. This can also be a very dangerous wave because of how much pressure and suction is involved in it.

Beach break

A beach break is when the waves are breaking on a sandy bottom. This is a great type of wave for surfing when you are starting out.

Blown out

This describes the surf conditions where the wind is blowing too strong and making the waves choppy, rough and plainly just unrideable.

Bomb

This is when a really big wave comes in and it is bigger than the others that have come before.

Caught on the inside or Impact Zone

This is when a surfer is in the middle of the impact zone where the waves are breaking. This can be a dangerous place to be in bigger surf.

Charging

This is when a surfer catches a wave and surfs it aggressively in a good way. Most of the time that term is referred to advanced surfers doing great turns on the wave or dropping in on some bombs.

Chinese wax job

This term is often used to describe wax on the back/ Bottom of the surfboard.

Clean or Glassy

It is also a term for surf conditions when the wind is good and makes the waves perfect with a great open face to surf. This is what all surfers dream of.

Closeout

This is when a wave closes itself, not giving anymore open face. It becomes all whitewater when it closes out.

 

Dawn Patrol

This is when you surf first thing in the morning. Usually around dawn time.

Deck

This is the side of the surfboard that you stand on. This is not the side where you put the fins.

Ding

This s when you made a hole or pressure on the surfboard.

Double overhead

Describes the height of the waves being twice as big as the surfer on it. In this image, the surfer is in the middle of the wave, but if he was at the bottom, you would notice right away that this wave is double the surfer’s height.

Drop or also called take off

This is when the surfer first stands up on the surfboard to start going down the wave.

Dropping in and Priority

Dropping in: We talked about this in the surf etiquette. This is when a person paddles into a wave when there is already somebody on it.

Priority: The right of way of a surfer depending on where they are placed in the lineup.

Duck dive

You duck dive to go under a wave coming at you. Instead of struggling to go over it or even being dangerous and ditching your board, you go under and back up behind the wave. This can only be done on shortboards effectively since they are smaller and lighter.

Dumping

This term is mainly used when it is a bigger day and the waves are very hollow. Usually at low tide when there is not much water for the wave to break on. Can be dangerous and sometimes not fun to surf if it is always sketchy do drop in on the wave.

Eating it or Wipeout 

Falling off your surfboard while riding the wave is referred to as a wipeout or eating it. Other terms like getting a pounding, got annihilated or anything else you would like when you know it was a bad fall.

Epic

Surfers use this term when it is a perfect day and the waves are amazing. Can also be used as an extremely good surf session or specific amazing moment in surfing.

Face

This is the part of the wave that is not broken yet.

Firing

This is the same as going off and epic. The waves are amazing and every one is wanting to go out.

Flat

The surf condition that occurs when there are no waves at all. Not fun, but still amazing!

 

Frontside

This is the opposite of backside. When standing up on your surfboard and riding the wave, you are facing the wave. A regular footed surfer would be frontside on a wave going right.

Frothing

This is the excitement from surfers that can’t wait to go surfing that day or amped to surf a specific spot.

Gnarly

Very dangerous surf conditions.

Going off

The waves are really good and firing. Everybody wants that to happen!

Goofy or goofy foot

When standing on your surfboard your right foot will be the front foot.

Grommet/ Grom

A term used to describes a child surfing.

Heavy

A term usually used to describe the waves when they are big and can be dangerous.

Hollow

A type of age describes for barrels or even  A-frames.

Inside

The part of the lineup where the waves are usually just whitewater. Great for beginners. These waves are e ones closest to shore.

Kick out

When you decide you are done with the wave by backing out on top of the wave and behind it.

Kook

Describes somebody that is not very good at surfing. But don’t think of it as a negative thing because even advanced surfers call each other Kooks. It can also be used for somebody that try’s too hard and wants to look cool. But also can also be used when somebody does not follow the surf etiquette and is being disrespectful to others.

Late takeoff

When taking off a wave at the last possible moment. It is sometimes too late.

Leash/ leg rope/ leggy

All described for the cord that is attached to your surfboard and yourself. The part of the equipment that is especially when surfing so you don’t have to swim back to shore every time you fall off a wave.

 

Left

A wave that breaks from right to left from a surfers point of view looking at the shore.

Lineup

It is the place just outside the waves a breaking are. This is where we wait for waves.

Lip

The tip of the wave about the break.

Lull

This is when the set is done and it is this period between the set. Surfers sit there and wait for the next wave during the lull.

Men in grey suits

Sharks

Messy

Surf conditions describing close out sections and irregular surf. Not ideal for surfing and usually caused by onshore for cross winds.

Mush waves

Slow, poor quality and non-powerful waves, usually onshore winds cause it.

Glassy (Image Below)

When the waves and conditions are really good with little to no wind. Makes a perfect clean wave.

Offshore

This is when the wind is blowing off the shore towards the waves. This wind is the best wind for surfing, makes the waves perfect.

 

Onshore

This is when the wind is bling in the shore towards the beach. This wind is not the best wind and usually generates choppy waves.

Choppy (Image Above)

This describes the surf conditions when the wind is making white caps and the waves rough.

Outback/ outside

Refers to the next wave coming up which is far out the back of the lineup. This wave will be breaking a lot further out so you better start paddling when you hear somebody saying that.

Over the falls

A wipeout when the surfer falls off the face of the wave and gets sucked up the circular motion of the wave and down the falls.

Overhead

When the wave is bigger than the surfer on it.

Party wave

When multiple surfers are one the wave at once. This will not be considered dropping in.

In the pocket

The most powerful part of the wave. This is just ahead of where the wave is breaking.

Pop-up

The motion a surfer makes when going from laying down on their board to a standing up position.

Pumping

A, swell when the waves are nice and powerful. It is also used when a surfer is gaining speed on a wave.

Quiver

A surfer collection of different surfboards.

Radical/ rad

An impressive surfing style, with a risk taking type of maneuvers.

Rail to rail

This a type surfing when the surfboard is constantly moving on the water, going from one side to the other. It will get you more speed on a wave but very tricky to do.

Reform

When a wave that has already been broken, forms again and is surfable again.

Regular/ regular footed

A surfer when standing on their board has the left foot forward.

Right

A wave breaking from the left to the right. From a surfers eye view looking at the shore.

Rip/ Rip Current

A very dangerous current that takes every from shore to after the lineup. The only way to get out of it is to paddle to the side. Here is more on rip tides and some surfing tips (link to blog 1)

Rocker

The bottom curve of your surfboard.

Shaka

A hand signal you have probably seen before used by surfers. With an extended thumb and little finger.

Shoulder

The surfable part of the wave that is not white water.

Shred / shredding

An aggressive surfer that makes surfing look easy. We say things like ” oh wow he shreds” to say that he surfs really well.

Sick

A term to describe something impressive like somebody doing an air. Not that you swallowed too much salt water.

Sketchy

This is used to describe something that is kind of scary. Like when there is a bunch of bait, there is obviously sharks under it so it is sketchy to surf.

Snaking

This is when a surged does a complete S around another surfer just to get the priority on the wave. This is as bad as dropping in and if you do it you will get the stink eye.

Spit

The spray that comes out of a barrel.

Sponger

A term used to describe a body surfer.

Stoked

Being very happy.

SUP

Stand up paddleboard

Swell

Refers to solid, real waves.

Tow in

Catching bigger waves by getting towed by a jet ski.

Tubular

The hollow part of the wave when breaking. We get tubed in a tubular wave.

Turtle roll

This is a technique longboarders use to get over the wave since they cannot duck dive. They do this by laying down on their board and flipping it upside down while holding on tight to it. When the wave has gone by, they flip it back over.

Wahine

A female surfer

Wax

I would say the most important ‘equipment’ to have. The wax smells good and gets stuck to your chest hair guys. It makes the surfboard sticky and does a grip effect on it so when you stand up you are not falling off because it is slippery. Wax is to put on before going out for a session.

Worked or Washing machine 

When you fall of a wave and get spun around and around underwater by the wave. Just like clothes getting washed in the washing machine.

Whitewater

The broke part of the wave. The best part of the wave to first learn how to surf.

Here you have it, the basic surfing terms dictionary. This does not include the surf equipment and different types of surfboards, but we have that coming up for you very soon. Now that you know, surfing is a whole lot her language to learn. Have fun and Shaka brah!

How To Wax a Surfboard

Some of the crucial things we can learn about our boards for everyday surf is how to wax a surfboard,  and what to use surf combs for. Summer is known to be the call for surfers in most countries and states around the US. Except for Florida, we don’t get many waves in the summer but we do get crystal clear water and that’s amazing as well. It also gives us a great reason to travel and go on surf trips and get to see other perfect breaks.

This is the season when the beautiful blue waves are splashing against the surfboards, calling out to all the surfers. With the sport of surfing, come many other tasks other than just being in the water surfing. Things like dry land training, fitness, breath hold practice, how to maneuver better, how to wax a surfboard properly and much more.

Waxing a surfboard is pretty straightforward. It is important to remove the fins first. Apply hot water and remove wax with surf comb. Grab a bar of wax and thoroughly wax your surfboard from tail to about chin high on your board.

We will break it down further because the more that we can learn about our surfboards and things such, fins, leashes, how to wax a surfboard, what to use surf combs for and surf conditions. This can get a little tricky, but with practice, there is nothing hard about it. Waxing a surfboard is something most of us do before every surf session.

If you are a beginner who has no idea how to take care of your surfboard, it can get extremely complicated and confusing. To avoid that, you need to study a little by asking your friends, other surfers and/or through this tutorial. Nowadays with the power of the internet, you can look practically anything and will learn easily. But following everything can be really hard without guidance. So, we have come up with the answers to some of your questions right here:

1. Do you need to wax a Surfboard?

Surfboards have been used for decades and have evolved ever since. Modern shapers have used many different materials to make them better over the years. Some of them include polyurethane or polystyrene foam covered with many layers of fiberglass cloth, and polyester or epoxy resin. This makes the surfboards light and at the same time, extremely strong.

If you are using a soft top (a board that is made out of plastic at the bottom and foam on top) you do not necessarily need to wax them….although some still wax them for more grips under their feet. Yes, some of the foam boards are slippery and can cause injuries while you are surfing. If your board is also slippery, then without any further delay you must wax it. All other hardboards like longboards, SUPs, and shortboards made out of epoxy and fiberglass need to be waxed before ever going out to the lineup. Not doing so will result in wipe-outs from sliding off the board.

Here are some waxing tips you can follow and use throughout your surfing journey:

• When you apply wax on your surfboard, it ensures that water repels the wax off and does not allow it to affect your feet. As it is not slippery, it not only repels water but also offers you adequate traction.
• During different weather conditions and seasons, there is a need to ensure that you can enjoy surfing the same way. Different water temperatures wax is also available depending on where you are surfing and if the water is cold or hot.
• When you have a firm grip, you are more likely to be able to retain your posture or instead stand in the way that you prefer. Without any fear of slipping you can enjoy surfing even more.
• When you have waxed your surfboard, you do not need any other accessory or tool to ensure your firm grip on the board. Except maybe a stomp pad but we’ll talk about that later on another post or video. It also saves you money over time if you are a beginner and maybe some intermediate guys on wax which price has gone up.

Most surfers wax their board really fast before every session so that the grip is reinforced every time.

A little tip and reminder for those surfing soft tops; once you wax those surfboards, the wax cannot come off. On the other hand, when you have a hard top, as soon as you see the wax getting dirty and not gripping anymore, you can remove it with a wax comb and put a new coat of wax and back to being perfect. I usually do this process every six months because I like my surfboards nice and clean but you can find your way. As long as it has grip…you are good, It’s completely up to you.

2. How to wax a surfboard?

Waxing a surfboard can go totally wrong if you do not know how to do it. If your surfboard is new or second hand, you still will have to put a fresh coat of wax on it. To get the perfect wax job done for your surfboard, follow the how to wax your surfboard instructions below:

You will need 1 block of cold or tropical wax, 1 wax scraper or what some call a surf comb, some hot water, and an old cloth. This process will take about 10 minutes, maybe even less. If your board is new, you can start the cleaning process from step 4:

1.Take the fins off and put them on the ground if you want. Its the smartest thing to do, but if you get lazy like I do sometimes, you just leave them on but are cautious of damaging it. Put your surfboard under some support under it to avoid getting it dinged (making a hole in the board). Usually, a towel will do or even a yoga mat is fine as well. It’s just to prevent dings and scratches.

2. Pour the hot water on the board which will help you get rid of the old wax coating. Make sure that the water is not boiling water, just hot enough to get rid of the coating. Once you pour water on the board, the coating will soften up by starting to melt and start to run off.

3. You can now scrape the soft wax off in long and steady strokes with your wax comb. Do not put too much pressure on top of the surfboard, this will create pressure dings (not actually a hole but just a pressure point). When most of the old wax is scraped off, pour more hot water and then use the cloth to wipe the board clean.

4. Take your tropical or cold wax and draw diagonal lines. Do from left to right (or vise versa) first all the way up the board to about where your head would be when laying down on it for most beginner boards. The surfboard that I am waxing is a performance board.

Then go diagonally from right to left all the way up to where you went earlier. It doesn’t have to be from left to right and then right to left but you get my point, go diagonally in one direction and then on top of it to the other. This will give wax layers something to bond to.

At this point, your board is waxed up, but not enough. Use the rest of your wax to do a bunch of little circles on top of the wax you previously put on. This will give it little bumps and will make the grip much stronger. Once you can see bumps, there, your board is all waxed up.

Waxing your surfboard is not hard. It does seem worrisome at first but it is quite easy, and anybody can wax surfboards like a professional. If you follow the steps correctly, you will easily be able to wax the board perfectly. It does take time and precision but honestly, it is my favorite thing to do. There is no better feeling then waxing a new surfboard!

3. What do you use a wax comb for?

As we mentioned before you are using the wax comb to help remove the wax. The second-hand surfboards usually have a huge amount of older wax coatings that are extremely hard to remove. Sometimes, even hot water does not do the trick. Of course, that happens because of the age of the wax and the quality of which differs from one brand to another. It is possible that if the older coating is not removed properly, the new wax coating will not adhere to well.

A wax comb is a tool or an instrument used in the maintenance of surfboards. They remove the older coatings and has is known to be extremely useful in doing that. The wax combs have features which help in making your work easier when it comes to wax removal and grip for the surfboard. These features include:

• Jagged or Toothed Edge: This edge helps you in improving the gripping of the wax on the surfboard. This will definitely give your wax coating the perfect touch for grip.
• Straight Edge: This edge is used to scrape the older wax coating off the surfboard.

There you have it and now you are “officially” ready to go ahead and wax your board! As soon as you are done with that grab it and head straight to the ocean, then post your board waxed on the comments box. I know you will have an awesome session without wipeouts from the wax awesome gripping. See you in the lineup!

Here are a couple videos on How To wax A Surfboard Properly and How To remove surf wax from surfboard. Check them out for a more hands-on instruction videos. 

What Are The Different Types Of Surfing Waves You Can Find?

If you live by the beach or are looking to take a vacation to the beach, you may very well be interested in the different types of surfing waves that may be near you. Surfing can really be exciting for you if you love the beach, the water, and waves. The splashes of water, the adrenaline rush, the sweep of the wind in your hair will certainly give you a high. Surfing is both adventurous and fun. You may be dying to get your board shorts on, grab a surfboard and have the time of your life.

There are different types of surfing waves you might be looking for. All of them in which you can surf on depending on the wind and swell direction. There is the beach breaks (all sand bottom), reef breaks (reef bottom), river mouths, and point break being (reef, rocks or sand) the best type of wave.

Waves can be dangerous and you must have the relevant expertise and skills to deal with the surf break you are looking to paddle out to. However, there are some key things you should take note of before you begin surfing on any day. These are as follows:

1. Swells: You should know of this if you are really into surfing. The wind over the ocean gains speed and momentum. With the distance crossed, the energy of the wind increases. The swell becomes more organized. As a result, you get a more prominent surfing wave. You may be interested to know that there are two kinds of swells mainly-

• Groundswell: With this type of swell you can enjoy stellar waves when intense storms with strong winds strong affect the seas and produce swell lines that make their way to the shores.

 

• Wind swell: They happen when winds blow over the surface of the water near the shores creating wind swell waves. They are usually short waves for riding and the quality is inferior to the groundswell. For instance, the state of Florida gets mainly wind swells from hurricanes and depressions out of the Atlantic ocean.

 

2. Refraction: When swells finally break out on the shallow water surface, the energy is eventually released. The energy becomes less concentrated on the shallow levels than at the deeper levels. This causes the swell to bend horizontally. The curve created is called refraction. You would be amazed to know that the refraction depends on the features of the landscape and how deep the sea floor is. You may have seen two kinds of refraction at surfing points.

These are:

• Convex: When the wave at the middle bends more towards the shoreline, rather than deeper wave the convex refraction is formed. The reason you can have some sometimes longer surf rides but less powerful waves is that of the convex refraction. The wind energy is spread over a larger area.

 

• Concave: Sometimes you would see waves with very prominent peaks. The wave from the side may look like a bowl to you. The deeper ends of the wave bend away from the shore. The swell actually bends more towards shore. This phenomenon is what you call concave refraction. The concave refraction produces excellent waves with peaks that you can ride to the left or right.

Best Waves To Learn To Surf On

Waves and currents are tricky to handle. If you are not properly trained, you may suffer an accident anytime during surfing. If you are a beginner, you should start to surf on waist high waves, or even just the whitewater. You should always go for beach breaks. You should be patient in learning to surf and make sure you understand the different types of surfing waves that you may encounter on your next trip.

Instead of learning to surf on your own and going through many tribulations of trial and error, you can instead take lessons from a professionally trained surfer. So, pay attention to your instructor when he is teaching you the basics of surfing. An instructor will tell you where you should stand on the board, and which wave at their local surf break to start surfing on. Also, go for an experienced guide rather than a novice guide.  Reading books and articles on Surfing will also help you out in understanding the process of surfing. You will be able to learn it a lot better after watching YouTube tutorials but be careful and make sure you are getting the right information.

The surf breaks are not the same everywhere. You need to observe the specific surf spot you are looking to surf at, and even watch other people surfing there to get an idea of how the waves differ from somewhere else you have surfed in the past. Primarily there are four kinds of waves that you can surf on. Here are the following types of waves you can find around the world.

Beach breaks

The size, shape, and peak of the waves you will notice vary from time to time due to the shifting of the sand. The beach breaks mean that the waves are crashing over a sandbar. The beach breaks are the best waves to surf on if you are new to surfing or just learning to do it. This is due to the sand being more forgiving than the reef once you fall on it.

Beach breaks, being the easiest to surf on for the beginners, can still be equally powerful in comparison to the reef breaks. You will find it interesting that the beach breaks have unpredictable breaks for the underlying sand moves as the swells and storms change them. The waves on these breaks can be hollow, gentle but at the same time powerful. Some notable beach breaks that may appeal to you are Huntington Beach, Hossegore beach of France, Trestles beach, etc.

Reef breaks

The reef breaks are formed by a reef or a coral under water. The water will break due to the excessive depth at its surrounding and the formation of nearby coral reefs. You can surf on some superb waves on the reef breaks, however, be careful to not get injured. The reef which is below the water surface is very dangerous. Reef breaks are known to cause accidents or injuries. Be careful to not get infections from skin lacerations. You should wear a helmet depending on the wave size and power. Only if you are an experienced surfer, should you surf in reef breaks, otherwise do not. Some of the famous reef breaks that you will love are Ululate in Bali and Hawaii’s Pipeline.

River Mouth Waves

You will find the waves along the rivers. You will notice that these waves are predictable and will accumulate along the rivers in the form of sandbars. You will find many similarities between the point breaks and river mouth waves. You can surf on the River mouth waves as a beginner. The river waves are calm. You are less likely to get injured or hurt.

Point breaks

Point breaks can have different bottoms like coral, sand, or rocks. This type of break when the conditions are on point can cause a very long lasting wave as it wraps around a point and races down the coastline. This break gives everyone the best time to practice multiple maneuvers as you will have much more time on the wave.

When surfing point breaks you may notice more than one surfer on a single wave as the face opens up down the coastline. It is important to understand that this type of break can be difficult to catch a wave as you should be careful with rocks around the break. Known point breaks in Jeffreys Bay South Africa, Noosa in Australia, Sunzal in El Salvador, Puerto Escondido in Mexico.

As you can see, surfing is not an easy sport but anyone that considers taking some training from a professional will progress smoothly and learn much faster. Using proper surfing equipment with helmets and shoes is something that you should not take lightly if you are surfing in cold water with rocks around you.

You should also have done proper research on the place where you are surfing. The landscape of the area, the tides, the size of the swells, the bottom, and the temperature conditions of the place. You must have knowledge of when the sun rises, sets and the sun is at its peak in the area. The solar energy influences the wind energy. The wind energy, in turn, is an important factor that affects the waves.

So, How Do You Start Surfing?

Before we dive into how do you start surfing, it is nice to understand and educate yourself on how this sport started. Surfing, known as heʻe ʻana (heʻe means to surf, and ʻana is the nominalizing particle) in the Hawaiian language and first discovered during the first voyage of James Cook while the ship stayed in Tahiti. Surfing was a central part of the ancient Polynesian culture and predates European contact. It is possible that Polynesian settlers in Hawaii most likely were skilled in simple surfing, and after a several hundred years of surfing the waves of Hawaii, the Hawaiian form of the sport developed. Surfing is one of the oldest practiced sports in the world.

Many people wondering how do you start surfing are usually interested in what skills are needed as well as equipment. But you can start surfing with a longboard for beginners, a leash, fins and a nice coat of wax on your surfboard. Flexibility, strength, balance, endurance, and commitment will also help you start surfing.

What Skills Do You Need For Surfing?

It is known that there are a few surf skills that are needed for you to enjoy the sport of surfing. Below we will point out how do you start surfing with these skills needed.

Balance

Balance is one of the most important skills in surfing. You not only are standing up on a small surfboard while at the same time you are going through the ocean on waves that keep changing shape and water texture depending on wind and currents.

Flexibility

Being flexible is as important as balancing for surfing. It takes flexibility to surf well. You need to be able to go from a prone position while paddling to an upright position on a moving board absorbing the shock of the waves on the surfboard. Also, flexibility can prevent injuries when you fall on a big wave and the white water throws your body around like a rag doll.

Strength

Those who surf need to have a lot of upper body strength core and lower body strength. This means arms that are strong, as well as strong legs. Training the chest, shoulders, triceps, back, Abs and Legs will greatly improve your time in the water as you can surf longer due to increased endurance levels. A strong and healthy body will help you in recovering due to any surf injuries.

Endurance

To paddle constantly through big waves, whitewater and strong currents will take a lot of endurance. Beginning surfers need to be willing to push themselves through muscle fatigue and exhaustion if you want to keep surfing and progress to bigger and faster waves. Determination and endurance go together and are key skills in becoming a great surfer.

This is much more vital to paddling than to surfing. A wave that is standard only lasts a few seconds, so it really does not take much energy as you take off at an angle that is along the face of the wave and kicking out. But, to paddle continually through whitewater with heavy lips and whirling currents does take a lot of endurance. That is when trying to catch more waves will be difficult, because you will be tired from fighting the white water to reach the lineup. If you are passionate about surfing, you more than likely will train to get all the endurance you need and you will progress rather quickly.

Determination

Getting pounded wave after wave can certainly test your motivation when you start to surf. If you do not have the determination to keep with it, then surfing can be an experience that is frustrating. It is a tough sport, so do not get discouraged especially in the first few months of practicing. Surf can definitely be picked up faster by those that have skateboarded, snowboarded and wake surfing. But, with practice as well as determination ultimately you will start seeing improvement and the rewards can be huge and fun.

If you have balance, flexibility as well as endurance in addition to a real passion for surfing; you will more than likely progress quickly. Those qualities will ensure you will not only perform on the waves, but you will be able to stay safe in situations where it would be easy to wipe out.

What extra skills do you need to be able to surf?

There are loads of exercises that will help you strengthen your surfing muscles, especially your shoulders, but just keep it simple. These are three ways that will keep you in the best surfing shape even when the waves are flat:

• Swimming
• Elbows in Push-ups
• Jumping rope

Swimming and push-ups will keep the shoulders, back and core strength. If these muscles are not worked frequently, your first surf session will suffer due to lack of strength and endurance. They will also be good for exercising your arms and legs. Push-ups are good for your arms which will help you with your pop up when you first stand up on the surfboard.

Jumping ropes is the perfect exercise for leg flexibility, strength, balance, and coordination which are all essential in surfing. Do these exercises regularly when the waves are flat and alternate an hour in the gym as well as some skateboarding, and you are good to go on your next session.

Surfing needs and supplies

Here are some things that a surfer needs to take up the sport of surfing. This also depends if you are in a warm water or colder water location.

Wetsuit

If you are planning to surf especially during the winter or in some areas in the summer, then a wetsuit is going to be necessary to keep from losing any sense of feeling in your arms and legs. Go to your local surf shop sports retailer and have the staff fit you up with the right size of wetsuit which is crucial to its purpose. If you know what size and make you want, then use one of the online stores to get yourself fixed up and pick up on some hot deals.

Leash

A leg rope or leash is just a long lead that is attached from an ankle to the back of your board to stop you from being separated from your board. Leashes will always be placed on your back foot. They are about the length of a board so when your wipe-out, the board will be out of the way before you surface, but close enough so you can hop back on quickly before the next wave comes crashing down on you.

Wax

An essential piece of equipment that is needed to help you stick to the top of your surfboard is your bar of wax. You can pick up many different brands and types of wax online or at your local surf shop. They come in numerous colors, shapes, and flavors dependent on the temperature of the water you will be surfing in. If you are going to surf in the United Kingdom, then look for cold-water and cool water wax as this will provide more traction. If you live in Florida for example, then you will need a tropical warm water wax. You need to rub the bar on the board’s topside, as this will improve your grip. For Beginners – it is not true that rubbing wax on the board’s underside will make it faster. You only rub it on the top side of your board.

Surfboards

There are many different types of surfboards to pick from when you are an experienced surfer. But as a new surfer, only two of them are appropriate for the beginner. Soft tops made out of foam which is the most forgiving, to begin with, and can be rented at most surfing beaches. While they are the boards that are best for starting they also have limits because of their basic design. You can also start with a longboard made out of polyurethane or polystyrene foam covered with layers of fiberglass cloth, and polyester or epoxy resin. These are much faster boards and a lot less forgiving if the board hits you when you fall of a wave. 

Understanding Different Types of Surfing Waves

Reforms: With reform waves, the waves start off normal and as the ocean floor gets deeper the wave dies off, and once the wave hits a shallower reef or sandbar it “reforms” or breaks again.

Closeouts: Waves that break all at once not giving you the chance to ride the wave to the left or to the right.

Tubing or Barrelling: These waves are the types of waves that most experience surfers look for as the swell comes in through deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef causing the wave to form a tube. These are not the waves a beginner should start surfing on. If those are the only types of waves you have at your local beach, make sure that you start off on the white water.

Mushy or Crumbly: These waves are not steep and are perfect for beginners as it breaks gently in a non-steep way.

Double-ups: This happens when the crest and troughs align and can make a much bigger and powerful wave.

Surf Etiquette

It is vital to use the right etiquette when surfing, or else things can just fall into complete chaos. The majority of the do and don’ts are described in detail in this surf etiquette post, so this is just a few things to remember. There are some rules that are unwritten, stay out of trouble, and enjoy surfing.

Right of way

Learn the surfer with the right of way on the wave. Take a minute and learn “wave priority”.

• Further out: Surfer further out or has been waiting for the longest;
• Furthest inside: The surfer who is nearest to the wave peak or the wave that is breaking;
• The first surfer to feet: The surfer first to get up is the first on the wave;
• Announcement: Calling of “Right” or “Left” if the wave is one with a “split-peak”.

Don’t drop in

Cutting in the front of any other surfer who is already up and surfing the wave is a fast way of getting the locals upset with you. Observing the “right of way” will keep you out of trouble.

Don’t snake

Paddling repeatedly around another surfer to get into the position that is inside on any wave is just not right. Where would everyone end up if everyone did this?

Share the waves

Share – even when you can paddle furthest outside and are able to catch the waves first each time you are in the line-up, do not do it. People quickly become aggravated with surfers who show this type of conduct and will start dropping in at any opportunity. Again, things can escalate into a chaotic situation.

This is all some beginner’s information on how do you start surfing for those that are just taking up this sport. If you follow this, you will be in good hands from the start.

Basic Rules Of Surfing and Best Surf Tips For All

Just like any other sports have rules that everybody should follow while learning, and continue to follow even as an intermediate or advanced surfer we bring you the Basic Rules of Surfing and Best Surf Tips to better prepare you. Everybody started the same way and everyone was not a pro surfer from the first time they started. It is impossible to just be good; you have to go through the process of learning slowly and improving over time. Yes, some are more athletic than others.

As you learn these basic rules of surfing and surf tips you should follow them every day you plan on paddling out. In a quick run through you will need to focus on the priority of the surfer paddling for the wave, holding down your board, duck diving, turtle diving, the rips, controlled beaches, staying in your comfort zone, great conditions, lots of sunscreen, no alcohol, being aware, eating some food, be respectful, courteous, surf with a buddy, always warm up before surfing, being safe, and most important….having fun! There is also a surfing etiquette which covers the right of way, how to paddle out to the lineup, and how to stay safe at all times.

Basic rules of surfing and best surf tips break down

Let’s go over the rules of surfing one by one so you can have a better understanding of each one individually and you will see that it is not that hard to follow and make surfing a lot more fun. When everyone in the lineup, follow these rules so it can make all surfers safe and a more fun and welcoming environment for everyone.

How Are The Surf conditions?

Making sure the surf is safe at the beach you want to go out is the best way to have a fun surf session. When surfing an unfamiliar spot, make sure to get some advice from the locals and maybe even following them to the lineup is a good idea. When learning how to surf, look around at where the surfers are and where the surfers around the same level as you are placed. Is it raining, Lightning, or Thundering? It might not be a good idea to surf in those conditions, the risks of you getting struck by lightning in the ocean is very high. There will not be any good visibility, and big fish such as sharks can use that to their advantage since they have an acute sense of smell and a very sensitive olfactory system.

Another thing is to avoid surfing at dawn and dusk especially when nobody else is surfing. Lastly, make sure the waves aren’t too big for you, and you will be able to handle it. The waves always look smaller when you are standing on the sand looking at them versus on the line up with the other surfers.

Rips Currents

Rips are dangerous currents that suck out everything from shore and close to shore into the deep ocean and far away from land. A rip can be recognized with sand washing up to the surface, where the waves are not breaking and will have a channel that I’ll go far away from the shore and waves. If ever stuck in a rip, remember not to panic and staying on top of your board (this is your floatation device, do not let it go).

Never swim or paddle against the current, always paddle to any side until you are out and where the waves are breaking better. A lot of surfers also use rips to their advantage to paddle out to the lineup, it makes it easy since the current is taking them out and the waves are not breaking. Once in the lineup, they paddle to any side to get out of the rip and be in a safe zone. As long as you understand how rips work, there is no need for concern.

Currents and Drifts

Be aware of the currents and drifts. To determine that look in which directions the water is going. Is it going towards the south or the north? If it goes south, paddle out a little bit more north so you can have a longer session all the way down. Vise verse if the drift is going north, start south. Currents will take everything along the way and you will go with it if stuck in one. Just like rips, if stuck in one paddle to the sides of it.

Sunscreen

Always wear sunscreen when surfing. Even if the weather doesn’t look the best, trust me you will get burnt even on overcast days! Most surfers use a type of zinc sunscreen on their face so that it doesn’t run in their eyes. Also if you are not wearing a wetsuit, it is a good idea to wear a UV-proof rash guard for your protection of UV light rays.

For those who have been surfing for a while now, they are aware of how strong the sun can be with the reflection of UV light hitting the water. Make sure that you do not add too much to your belly as this will make the board very slippery and hard to stay up. It will be like playing in a bounce house with baby oil!

Guarded Beaches and Areas

If you are surfing at a guarded beach where lifeguards are present, make sure you know where the surfing area is and where it ends as well. In Australia, never surf in between the red and yellow flags; it’s a swimming area. In America, look for the yellow flags with a black ball in the middle (black ball flag), when these are up you are not allowed to surf in between them for a certain period of time.

For more information on where to surf exactly, ask a lifeguard on the beach and they will let you know where you can and cannot surf. Take note of where you are allowed to surf and make sure to stick to it when you are out in the water. And if you get out of the area set, go in and walk over to where you started.

Crush Some Food

Just like any other physical activity, especially like surfing; do not paddle out for at least 45 minutes after you have eaten. It will make it very easy for you to get a cramp and impact the ability of you surfing that day. Remember if you crush too much food, you will be laying on your belly for a long time and that is very uncomfortable.

No Booze

Surfing under the influence is not the best idea. Surfing after drinking can also increase the chances of risks when surfing, such as drowning, losing consciousness, and so on. Save it for after your surf session and then you can tell how many barrels you got that day and not how many times you hurled on your surfboard.

Bring A Friend Surfing

Just like diving, you do not want to go surfing by yourself, always have a buddy with you. Not only will it be a lot more fun to share waves with a friend but there will also be somebody there in case of an emergency and they will be able to help you out.

Get Your Surf Fitness On

Make sure that you are physically fit to surf and that you work on surf specific workouts. On flat days you can go to the swimming pool and do some laps. You must be able to swim to shore if you lose your board after an exhausting session where the waves are overhead. If you also have a longboard, on flat days you can work on in and out paddles for about 100 yards out from shore and back.

Always Warm-Up

Before going out into the water, you should do a quick warm up and stretches to get you ready. This will reduce the chances of you getting a cramp and potentially pulling a muscle while surfing. It will also give you more time to analyze the rips, conditions and where the best spot to paddle out are.

Stay In Your Comfort Zone

Always remember to surf in waves that you are comfortable with. Don’t try to impress your friends or the local girl at the beach. Don’t let it be too much and then panic and put yourself and others in danger. When you are in doubt, then stay out!

 

Be Aware Of Your Surrounding

Be aware of the surfers around where you are surfing, and potential hazards in the water. While learning how to surf, it is easy to drift to areas that you did not paddle out for and not made for your abilities. Look back at the beach often to see how far you are from where you paddled out and if it’s out of the area you had set for yourself to be, make sure to paddle back to where you initially planned on surfing. If you have a hard time paddling back, go in and walk back. Remember to be aware of the other surfers surfing as well; being friendly to everybody will help too.

Priority On A Wave

Always make sure you are not stealing somebody wave. Priority simply means who caught the wave first or who is the in the best position to catch the wave. Somebody will have priority when they are closest to the breaking wave (whitewater). In the image above, as you are looking at it, the surfers to our left has priority.

Another way would be that if you see somebody on the wave already, they have priority and you will have to wait for the next one. Somebody that does not follow this simple rule will be in great chances of getting hurt and will be in trouble with the person who had priority. No one likes to be cut odd in surfing, so please pay attention.

Holding or Throwing Your Surfboard?

It is very important to be able to recognize when to hold on to your surfboard or when to let go of it. If you are paddling out, you should hold on to your surfboard despite the temptation of ditching it and diving under the wave. By keeping your board and holding on to it, you will be able to get out in the lineup faster and will not put anyone at risk paddling behind you. If you are about to fall, or a surfer call wipeout; ditch your board and jump in the water. You are way more likely to get an injury if you are on your board.

Now that you know the Basic Rules of Surfing and Best Surf Tips and what to look for; you are ready to go out and have an awesome session! Just remember one special tip… safety first.